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When Heritage Meets Haute Couture: Bombay High Court Hears PIL Alleging Prada Copied Kolhapuri Chappals

Public Interest Litigation Filed Before the Hon’ble Bombay High Court

Italian luxury brand Prada, during its Spring/Summer 2026 showcase at Milan Fashion Week, unveiled sandals that bore an uncanny resemblance to Kolhapuri chappals — a culturally iconic, handmade leather slipper that holds a Geographical Indication (GI) tag in India.
Kolhapuri chappals were granted GI status in 2019 under the Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration and Protection) Act, 1999, recognizing them as region-specific traditional products of Maharashtra and Karnataka. These handcrafted slippers are produced by local artisan communities using traditional processes passed down over generations.

Key Allegations Raised in the PIL
1. Unauthorized Commercial Use:
The Petitioner alleges that Prada used the traditional Kolhapuri design without permission, collaboration, or attribution, thereby violating Section 22(1)(b) of the GI Act, 1999, which prohibits use of a registered GI in a manner that misleads or causes unfair competition.

2. Violation of GI Rights and Cultural Misappropriation:
The use of the Kolhapuri design on an international fashion runway — without recognition or benefit to the Indian artisan communities — is alleged to be “cultural appropriation” and exploitation of intangible heritage.

3. Need for Government Action:
The PIL seeks the intervention of the Ministry of Commerce and Industry, demanding policy measures to protect the economic and moral rights of GI holders and traditional artisans under Article 21 of the Constitution (right to livelihood and dignity).

4. Demand for Redress:
The petitioner has requested the following:
Prada be directed to publicly acknowledge the design’s origin;
An apology and compensation to Kolhapuri artisan groups;
Establishment of a statutory mechanism for global brands to collaborate with GI product communities before commercialization;
Blocking sales of the infringing products via platforms such as Farfetch, Amazon, and Prada’s own website.

Wider Impact and Why It Matters
This case stands at the intersection of intellectual property law, cultural heritage, and global commercial ethics. It raises critical questions:
Can global luxury brands borrow traditional Indian designs without attribution?
Do artisan communities have enforceable rights beyond Indian borders?
Should India’s GI regime be expanded to prevent international misappropriation?
The PIL urges a systemic solution, not just legal redress — encouraging collaborative frameworks where heritage becomes a shared asset, not an appropriated commodity.

In the Words of the Petitioner
“This is not just about footwear — it’s about ‘economic justice’ and ‘cultural recognition’. Kolhapuri chappals represent centuries of craftsmanship. You can’t just wear that legacy on a runway without giving anything back.”
The case is currently pending before the Hon’ble Bombay High Court. If admitted and ruled upon, it may become a landmark precedent in India’s cultural IP jurisprudence.

Prepared by : Drashti S. Varmora (Advocate)